tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-72016261751428083572024-03-13T01:13:24.819+01:00Italian IntriguesNotes about life in Italy, food and wine, mysteries and crimePatricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.comBlogger106125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-5662302204281003772016-01-06T12:00:00.000+01:002016-01-06T12:00:11.588+01:00The Christmas Witch<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Italian Intrigues</span><i><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> has been inactive for some time. I am restarting it today with a post that first appeared in </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Novel Adventurers</span><i><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> in 2011. </span></i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A procession of the Magi in Florence</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Who flies across the world on a cold winter night filling children’s stockings with presents? Santa Claus? Well, yes, but not on the night of January 5. That’s the Befana, a good witch adored by Italian adults and children alike. <br /><br />January 6 is Epiphany, the twelfth day of Christmas, marking the arrival of the three Wise Men at the manger with gifts for the baby Jesus. It’s also a national holiday in Italy, marking the last day of the Christmas season.<br /><br />According to an Italian legend, the Magi stopped at an old woman’s hut on the night of January 5, asking for directions to the Christ child. The old woman didn’t know, so they asked her to join them. She told them that she was too busy cleaning her house. Later, when she saw the bright star, she changed her mind and went in search of the manger with gifts but was unable to find it.<br /><br />In one version of the legend, she became so distraught at not finding the child that she cried. Her tears fell onto her broom, which in her haste she had brought along. The purity of her tears gave magical powers to the broom, allowing her to fly on it.<br /><br />In another version, she has lost a child, perhaps killed by Herod's men who were charged with destroying all newborns to prevent a Savior coming into the world. In her quest, she found the Christ child and thought it was her baby. The baby Jesus was so sympathetic that he gave her broom its magical powers and allowed her to be the mother of all children for one night each year.<br /><br />Since then, every year on the night of January 5, the Befana flies all over the world, filling <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Befana's coal</td></tr>
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good children’s stockings with presents and candy and leaving lumps of coal for bad ones. The coal isn't such a bad thing, because it's almost 100 percent sugar. Because the Befana is a good housekeeper, she may also sweep a bit.<br /><br />The Befana tradition has existed on the Italian peninsula for centuries, and it may have it’s origin in an ancient Roman celebration called Saturnalia, which began around winter solstice and lasted for about ten days. At the end of the festival, Romans went to the Capitoline hill to have their augurs read, perhaps by an old woman.<br /><br />The Befana is dressed in old, tattered clothing with a black shawl. She’s smudged with soot because she comes through the chimney like Santa Claus(how does his beard stay so white!).<br /><br />Before the children go to bed on January 5, they put out treats for the Befana, including a small glass of wine. Tradition has it that if you see the Befana, she thumps you with her broom. That may have been an inducement created by parents to get the children off to bed early! <br /><br />Today, there are celebrations throughout Italy both on the evening of the fifth and on <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Befana Regatta in Venice</td></tr>
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Epiphany itself with processions, fireworks, and more. In Vatican City, people in medieval dress march to St. Peter’s with gifts for the Pope; in Venice, the Regatta della Befana is raced on the Grand Canal; in Florence, a medieval parade from the Pitti Palace marches across the Ponte Vecchio to the cathedral with flag twirlers and antique musical instruments.<br /><br />When I’m asked what we do for Befana in America and I say we don’t have Befana, people—old and young alike—are stunned. They shake their heads in wonder. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">No Befana! How can that be?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span>Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-71297112121697457752014-04-19T05:23:00.000+02:002014-04-19T05:23:03.556+02:00The Wasps' Nest<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">The area of Rome where I live was dubbed </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">Nido di Vespe </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">(wasps’ nest) by the Nazis during World War II because it housed a major network of </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">partigiani, </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">the guerrillas who engaged in sabotage and other anti-Nazi activities. The Germans ultimately swept through with a mass roundup on April 17, 1944—seventy years ago yesterday.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">By the beginning of 1944, Rome was in chaos: the allies were marching from the south; troops had landed at Anzio; the king had fled; the Italian government had surrendered to the allies; the Jewish ghetto had been swept and many of its citizens sent to Auschwitz. The Nazis were in control. Against this background the partigiani stepped up their activities in central Rome, culminating in an attack near the Spanish Steps in which 33 German soldiers were killed. The Nazis retaliated with a massacre on March 24, 1944 with 335 Italian men killed—ten Italians for each German, plus five for good measure.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiovMH-musRLCd9Y2ZXJW8yRt-UxElY2ON8mdPpRJKyX6g-9ACkAZm86rRdVcpz_9rzHmo9qW3CbqhW7PG-zD3qJY0gwHNbt31ZvxlE6owjhF5fPHVtGdyYtx611UjSlmEHNabZvC3xu4Y/s1600/2-DSCN1446-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiovMH-musRLCd9Y2ZXJW8yRt-UxElY2ON8mdPpRJKyX6g-9ACkAZm86rRdVcpz_9rzHmo9qW3CbqhW7PG-zD3qJY0gwHNbt31ZvxlE6owjhF5fPHVtGdyYtx611UjSlmEHNabZvC3xu4Y/s1600/2-DSCN1446-001.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">On April 10, Easter Monday, a partigiano shot three German soldiers at point-blank range in a trattoria near Cinecittà. For the Nazis, this was a last straw. At 4 AM on April 17, German troops blocked all access to this neighborhood, known as the Quadraro, going house to house and rounding up about 2000 men between the ages of 16 and 60. Half of these managed to escape, but 947 were transported to concentration camps where they were forced into hard labor. Known in Italy as the </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">Schiavi di Hitler</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;"> (Hitler’s slaves), in Germany they were called Volunteers for Germany. About half of these men died in the concentration camps. The event is known as the </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">Rastrellamento del Quadraro</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;"> (the Raking of the Quadraro). It was the second-largest Nazi roundup in Italy after the Jewish ghetto in Rome.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Each year, there is a commemoration. On this, the seventieth anniversary, there are several days of events, including concerts, releases of a new book and a video, art exhibitions, and others. Yesterday, I went to a wreath-laying ceremony. A group of local dignitaries, military leaders, and citizens—some representing families of victims of the rastrellamento—assembled near the spot where the detained men were initially held. A military band played the </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7pmy-u1awI"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">national anthem</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">. A couple of aging men held banners. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Then with little fanfare, we all marched to the nearby Parco del 17 Aprile 1944 where a monument honors the victims. On the way, we passed a newly painted mural of giant wasps on their nest. The mural proclaimed, in English, “You are now entering free Quadraro.” </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoIBcqEwcsgHM3iXXA_PQIQrGkTQd76l7SUAvA4ExKT5BULOReMfatyXLU844UvCE8DIVyW7RSBNFTD0IReNTQzyTeGJOf-CgF31_sNVCE96ZajFCzx_PSWR-yygK10wFX2GBSQinUF0A/s1600/5-DSCN1456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoIBcqEwcsgHM3iXXA_PQIQrGkTQd76l7SUAvA4ExKT5BULOReMfatyXLU844UvCE8DIVyW7RSBNFTD0IReNTQzyTeGJOf-CgF31_sNVCE96ZajFCzx_PSWR-yygK10wFX2GBSQinUF0A/s1600/5-DSCN1456.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">The band had scurried to the park by bus while we marched and reassembled, performing again. The wreath was positioned in front of the monument, and representatives of various levels of government spoke. A man from one of the affected families laid a bouquet. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">I feel honored to live in a neighborhood with such roots.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">Next week I’ll continue with a post about my visit to Sicily.</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;"> </span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-67081881511623562092014-04-12T08:19:00.002+02:002014-04-12T08:20:43.418+02:00Party Pan<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Yesterday I went to a birthday party. When the birthday girl, my friend Gaby, invited me a couple weeks ago, she said, “I’ve ordered </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">pan brioche</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">.” I’d never heard of this before, so I asked about it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Gaby said, “Oh, I used to see it at parties. It’s a collection of sandwiches all put together inside bread.” I had trouble getting my head around that. Somehow, I imagined a loaf of bread hollowed out with sandwiches stacked inside. Then I forgot about it until I arrived for the party. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">I live very nearby and turned up as the first guest. At her request, I’d brought a plate of my famous deviled eggs. “And here,” she said, “is the pan brioche.” I saw a tall round loaf of bread encased in cellophane and topped with a red bow. I still had trouble understanding how it worked.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Eventually, when I was no longer the lone guest, we opened the package—a somewhat difficult task because the cellophane had been taped as if to ward of an invasion. Even with two sets of hands and a pair of scissors, we were almost thwarted in our attempt to breach the fortress.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">The bread had been sliced horizontally. Gaby removed the top piece, which she labeled “the hat.” revealing four bamboo skewers holding the slices in place much as toothpicks hold together club sandwich triangles. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyd1bxIV8iOUzRD3mkVBXI7UYcwaU4cE45TrDGixlk_ynNDSmdExiEzLIVw1iaX08ThPI9o0_Tr9dhuu6Ro1Iw9eRkjwbuNhBTsfU0W2-M93yhrTZp2AgGKSEWApeT0m-RbMQntXunzW8/s1600/1-side+view.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyd1bxIV8iOUzRD3mkVBXI7UYcwaU4cE45TrDGixlk_ynNDSmdExiEzLIVw1iaX08ThPI9o0_Tr9dhuu6Ro1Iw9eRkjwbuNhBTsfU0W2-M93yhrTZp2AgGKSEWApeT0m-RbMQntXunzW8/s1600/1-side+view.JPG" height="303" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Each layer had a different sandwich filling: prosciutto and cheese, bresaola and rucola (dried beef and arugula), tuna and tomato, mushroom and cheese. There was probably some salami as well. I didn’t sample every layer. The bread had been cut into quarters vertically creating dainty sandwiches</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">It made a festive party food, and I’m sure to get one at some point in the future. The shop where Gaby had this one made is just down the street. I’m not sure I’m up to tackling this in my own kitchen.</span></div>
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<i>I'll return to my tales from Sicily in two weeks. Next week, I'm writing about a World War II anniversary in my neighborhood.</i></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-2282378623692864982014-03-31T07:16:00.000+02:002014-03-31T07:16:33.122+02:00The Scents of Sunday<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Yesterday was the official first day of spring at my house because I left the doors to my terrace open all day. I marked it by doing what my Italian neighbors call Easter cleaning—that is, spring cleaning. I worked at a leisurely pace by doing a task (or part of one) then retiring to the terrace to read a chapter (</span><a href="http://www.elizabethzelvin.com/"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Elizabeth Zelvin</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">’s excellent </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">Voyage of Strangers</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">). Sitting on the terrace gave me an olfactory tour of my neighbors’ homes. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">On this first day of daylight savings time in Italy, I charted my neighbors’ waking hours by the aroma of espresso wafting through the Rome air. I imagined that I could hear the hiss as steam rose in each </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">caffeteria</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;"> (the stove-top espresso maker that graces Italian kitchens) and the gurgle of the last drop of coffee entering the pot. People rose at different times throughout the morning, and the coffee ritual repeated itself with each awakening. I drank my own cup before any of my neighbors stirred, and found myself making a second round before too long.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht2t4Q0QoT0DdYl3N0UiJMkHR5LAprVNWhgJilWsGlhsBDvBsTuhjpYqrddwWAgkg0WDJ15b_26wAZLbdKbG8x1dPIOmWMcYCdm6aXZas2_VDR8y_zDQ19bLX2KY6OTRWwgXf_hOywp8o/s1600/peppers.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht2t4Q0QoT0DdYl3N0UiJMkHR5LAprVNWhgJilWsGlhsBDvBsTuhjpYqrddwWAgkg0WDJ15b_26wAZLbdKbG8x1dPIOmWMcYCdm6aXZas2_VDR8y_zDQ19bLX2KY6OTRWwgXf_hOywp8o/s1600/peppers.JPG" height="132" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">After placing all movable furniture (chairs, small tables) onto non-movable pieces (bed, sofa), I returned to the terrace for another chapter. This time, someone was roasting peppers; the tang tickled my tongue as I contemplated what dish the cook planned. Nice fat noodles with sausage and peppers, perhaps. Or a very traditional side dish combining the peppers with roasted eggplant and zucchini. Whatever, it made me wish I had more than half a red pepper in my fridge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Retuning to the matter at hand indoors, I plugged in the vacuum. After sweeping through half the apartment, I went back to the terrace. This time, I sniffed someone baking a chocolate cake. That’s a rare smell. Usually for Sunday </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">pranzo</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">, people visit a pastry shop—in years past, one of the few businesses open on Sunday. Traditionally, the treats from a pastry shop are wrapped in paper (proclaiming the identity of the shop) and tied with a ribbon. It common on Sunday mornings to see people scurrying through the streets with this precious cargo. But this week, a luncheon table in my building carried a homemade cake.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Finished the vacuuming. When I retired to the terrace this time, I was blasted with the heady scent of that most traditional of Sunday dishes—chicken roasted with potatoes and seasoned with rosemary and garlic. My fingers slipped over the chicken skin as I imagined rubbing it with olive oil. The prickle of the rosemary needles tickled by fingers in my imagination. Alas, while my cupboard held potatoes and garlic and my terrace a pot of rosemary, I had no chicken.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">After being enticed by the scents of my neighbors’ kitchens, I entered mine and made a sandwich from leftover pork roast (studded with garlic and rosemary) accompanied by a glass of freshly squeezed blood orange juice. No aroma to reveal myself to the neighbors. I settled on the terrace again, munching my sandwich and getting back to Diego and Rachel (Elizabeth Zelvin’s characters).</span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-55640064527990709292014-03-21T10:32:00.000+01:002014-03-21T10:32:32.125+01:00Cheese on the Farm<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">I recently visited Sicily as the guest of </span><a href="http://www.cronachedigusto.it/"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">Cronache di Gusto</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">—an online magazine about food and wine. One word describes the people I met: </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic; font-weight: 600;">passion</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">. Passion for the island, passion for the food and wine, passion for their work, passion for the way of life. During the next several weeks, I will be writing from time to time about how the Sicilian people revealed that passion to me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">The Cucchiara family has been making cheese in the Belice Valley near Salemi, Sicily, for five generations. The newest member of the team, twenty-six-year-old Baldo Cucchiara, began hanging around the cheese-making shed at the age of five. Today, he works beside his father Salvo and uncle Liborio to produce, among other cheeses, Vastedda del Belice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">The Vastedda del Belice is protected by Italian and European laws which ensure that only cheese made from sheep’s milk produced in the valley using traditional methods can be identified with that label.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Father Salvo Cucchiara Watches Son Knead Vastedda</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">A completely organic cheese, the Vastedda del Belice from the Cucchiara brothers is made from milk from about 500 sheep which feed on grass and are milked </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt; font-style: italic;">by hand</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">. The family continues to use the traditional method of making this cheese. First, rennet from a sheep’s stomach is mixed with the fresh milk. This first cheese is allowed to solidify in round forms. The cheese is then cut into slices, mixed with hot water, and kneaded with a wooden paddle. This kneading process stretches the cheese, eliminating any holes and producing a smooth texture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Once the cheese has been kneaded, it is rolled into balls for the final formation. The day I visited the farm, Liborio squeezed out the balls and handed them over to Salvo and Baldo. These two quickly weighed out by hand 500-gram pieces, returning the leftover bits to Liborio. They didn’t use a scale but relied on their experience to gauge the weight. They flattened the balls and placed them in a ceramic saucer to harden. They worked quickly, forming about three dozen cheeses in less than ten minutes while fielding questions from eight writers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">On the day I was there, they were also making fresh ricotta. I arrived just in time to see the final step when the cheese is scooped into the plastic baskets. When the cheese is first transferred to the baskets, it is quite liquid. Initially, the whey drains away quickly. Over time, as the product is shipped to vendors, the drying out process slows down so that by the time I buy a good sheep’s milk ricotta at my local market, it will have a semi-solid texture.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Still-Warm Ricotta in a Copper Pot To Collect the Whey</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Once we had viewed the cheese-making, our driver began rounding up my group to leave. “Wait,” called Salvo. “You may leave when I tell you.” He then led us to another building with tables. Here, the Cucchiaras set out several cheeses—including that still-warm ricotta—salami, olives, sun-dried tomatoes, homemade bread, and wine. Delicious.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 13pt;">Baldo, the next generation, is passionate about his calling. His eyes reflect joy as he forms the cheese. Asked by a journalist if he is satisfied. “Oh, yes,” he said. “I went to a classical high school, but all I really wanted was to make cheese.” The only thing he wants now is to get married and start a family. And I suspect he hopes to continue the tradition that his family started in 1870.</span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-57127850940299987672014-03-14T13:05:00.000+01:002014-03-22T16:41:05.514+01:00A Taste of Sicily<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: x-large;">I’ve just returned from a whirlwind journey to Sicily as the guest of <a href="http://www.cronachedigusto.it/" target="_blank">Cronache di Gusto </a>(News about Flavors) where I visited five wineries and a cheese maker, saw some incredible sights, and enjoyed generous Sicilian hospitality. Enjoy the pictures below. I’ll write more next week.</span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-80878864887272398822014-03-05T18:55:00.002+01:002014-03-15T08:31:45.669+01:00To Market, To Market<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Winter Day at the Market</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">One of my favorite pastimes in Italy is shopping at the markets for food. Rome has dozens of markets scattered throughout the city. The best known, Campo di Fiori, is an outdoor market in the center of Rome. While locals do shop there, it’s a tourist spot as well and has prices and products targeting the out-of-town crowd.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">There’s another tiny street market in the center near Via Margutta, Gregory Peck’s street in </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large; font-style: italic;">Roman Holiday. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">In this tony neighborhood, tourists pass by on the the parallel Via del Corso and Via del Babbuino, missing out on one of the best sites and experiences of the city.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dressed Puntarelle</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">When I first came to Rome, I haunted the markets all over the city, getting off buses to visit a new one. I learned a great deal about Italiann, food then. On one of these excursions I first encountered </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large; font-style: italic;">puntarelle, </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-size: large;">a special Roman dish made from a type of chicory. The leaves must be stripped from the stems, the part that’s eaten, and I watched a man using a special tool for the job. In my own market, I find bags of cleaned puntarelle, but so far, I haven’t seen anybody cleaning it. The stems are dressed with garlic, anchovies, olive oil, and white wine vinega</span>r.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">During my first year in Rome, I shopped with a little old man and woman who were only licensed to sell eggs. I bought four at a time, and they wrapped them in brown paper. After I had been buying from them for several months, the woman whispered, “Vuole delle fragole?” Fragole are strawberries, and I thought buying some a good idea. She took me to the trunk of her car, shielding the view with her body and placing me in line to do the same. Inside, she revealed some stunning small purple grapes. She was selling them without a license and making them available to good customers. I bought some; they were good. That’s how I learned that some grapes can be called strawberries, too.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim3H4V2_SqRggcOqg78zB9tyw5O6o0D5MqF0_20EWjuQm5i-VDm0fks4qcZZWheahoPVTmaZIiVRijIaepQ879tKEbDohHCCaonnmCWfDP5kHKmyFbL84apjFTovzZIjV8hWHdP36eJ1Y/s1600/minestrone.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim3H4V2_SqRggcOqg78zB9tyw5O6o0D5MqF0_20EWjuQm5i-VDm0fks4qcZZWheahoPVTmaZIiVRijIaepQ879tKEbDohHCCaonnmCWfDP5kHKmyFbL84apjFTovzZIjV8hWHdP36eJ1Y/s1600/minestrone.JPG" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">During the fall and winter months, proprietors of vegetable stands cut vegetables to make minestrone mix. The mixture varies from stall to stall, but it will include root and leafy veggies. Sometimes it will include onion or shelled beans; sometimes not. It’s great to take a kilo home, mix it with some stock and a bay leaf, and let it simmer while I work. And lunch is ready.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">I haunt just one market these days. It’s a five minute walk from my home, and I think it’s one of the best markets in the city. Covered, with heating and air conditioning, </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large; font-style: italic;">Il Mercato Tuscolano III </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">feeds me. About 60 stalls spread throughout the hall, and unlike some markets I know, no stalls remain unused. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to My Market</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">One stall sells many varieties of mushrooms, another sells 20 or more varieties of fresh pasta. The center of the hall holds a stall selling fresh buffalo mozzerella. Branching of from that are many vegetable and fruit stands. Fresh eggs? Several stalls sell them. One woman sells “exotic” items. She sometimes has sweet potatoes or plantains.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">You can buy a slice of pizza if you’re hungry or a cup of espresso in the corner bar. And in case you have other needs, you can buy paper towels or a spool of thread, get your shoes repaired, or pick up fresh flowers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">A couple of times, I’ve taken friends visiting Rome to the market—sometimes making lunch from our purchases. Everybody going with me has been enchanted, so far. Wish you could join me. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large; font-style: italic;">I’m off to Sicily in a couple of days. I’ll post from there next week—probably just photos.</span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-32306599060916017402014-02-26T11:17:00.000+01:002014-02-26T11:17:20.260+01:00Tuscan Dreams<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recipe from a Tuscan Dream</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">On my last visit to Florence, I sampled a sweet treat that I first encountered many years ago and hadn’t thought about in a long, long time: Budino di Riso. Available in pastry shops throughout Tuscany, this little treat is traditionally oval-shaped with a soft pastry filled with a creamy rice pudding baked in the oven. When I first encountered them in Livorno, they were called Torta di Riso.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">I scoured high and low in Florence looking for a pan to bake them in and came up empty. When I returned to Rome, I surfed the ‘net looking for a recipe. I discovered in the search that, like many other Italian dishes, regional variations abound. I found rice pudding similar to the one I grew up eating in America and cakes with rice as a predominate ingredient—often filled with candied fruit. After lots of searching, I finally found a recipe that mirrors the Budino di Riso I ate in Florence.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">The recipe is a bit labor-intensive, but if you make the crust the day before and store it in the fridge, it doesn’t seem like an impossible task. This recipe suggest baking the sweet in a mini muffin pan.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Budino di Riso</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pastry Shop Budino di Riso</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">2/3 cup rice flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">3/4 cup sugar</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">2/3 cup butter</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">1/2 teaspoon salt</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">1 egg</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">This can be made in the food processor. Place all the dry ingredients in the processor bowl and pulse to combine. Cut the butter into little cubes and add to the dry mixture. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Pulse until the butter is incorporated and the mixture resembles crumbs. Add the egg and pulse again briefly to incorporate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Remove to a board and knead briefly until the dough is smooth. Form into a ball and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least an hour or overnight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">For the filling:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">3 cups milk</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">1 1/2 cup uncooked rice</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">grated zest of 1 lemon</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">1 teaspoon vanilla</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">2/3 cup sugar</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">2 eggs, separated</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAYhymtepd4t4pLxL-YSuSQJlWVDHZOGGLFy6NpMewMkfBGDXD8BiXyj4eoKPY8cEVMaSp7Wwn0z49l2AXYv0eif-wFL66BVqz-PMx8FJQQUUe5c-u46vZcCj9l1dW4KFg5uaKMSPZ3j4/s1600/Budino+di+riso--homemade.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAYhymtepd4t4pLxL-YSuSQJlWVDHZOGGLFy6NpMewMkfBGDXD8BiXyj4eoKPY8cEVMaSp7Wwn0z49l2AXYv0eif-wFL66BVqz-PMx8FJQQUUe5c-u46vZcCj9l1dW4KFg5uaKMSPZ3j4/s1600/Budino+di+riso--homemade.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Homemade Budino di Riso</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Place the milk in a saucepan and add the lemon zest and vanilla. Scald the milk and add the rice, stirring with a wooden spoon. Continue cooking and stirring until the rice has absorbed most of the milk. Add 1/3 cup of the sugar. Set aside to cool.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">When the mixture has cooled, stir in the egg yolks, baking powder, and the other 1/3 cup of the sugar. Set aside while you prepare the pastry.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Roll out the dough and cut into circles that will fit the bottom and sides of the small cups of a mini muffin pan.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Beat the egg whites and fold into the rice mixture. Fill each muffin cup with the rice mixture, leaving room for the pudding to rise.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Place the muffin tin in a 325 F (170 C) oven and bake for 30 minutes. Test by inserting a toothpick into the center of one budino. It it is liquidy, cook a bit longer. Remove to wire rack and allow to cool for about 15 minutes before unmolding.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"><i>Please visit my website at www.PatriciaWinton.com</i> </span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-27300492669016784822014-02-20T11:57:00.000+01:002014-02-20T11:57:49.458+01:00A Flamenco Dancer, Silly String, and Sugar<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvCOInicnXa_EK0HCgWo_pQNd__rjvJh4qmhdbraN2NYPuOIpor2TSOg7wSebE-VpgdHDziBT_sD52zW9gB4k9up9qRYUX4hK9XVIFDiWpYEI2Ry0sLWO7pYNZHSdJOSdPmC_T9zlz9Lc/s1600/flamenco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvCOInicnXa_EK0HCgWo_pQNd__rjvJh4qmhdbraN2NYPuOIpor2TSOg7wSebE-VpgdHDziBT_sD52zW9gB4k9up9qRYUX4hK9XVIFDiWpYEI2Ry0sLWO7pYNZHSdJOSdPmC_T9zlz9Lc/s1600/flamenco.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">A couple of days ago, I encountered a bull fighter and a flamenco dancer at the supermarket. They were about one meter (three feet) high—in other words, children. Decked out in their carnival finery, they and other children will wear their costumes for afternoon walks with their parents (including stops in the supermarket) and even to school until Martedì Grasso. The costumes can be quite elaborate—even for babies—and have price tags to match. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">While they’re out, children toss confetti at passersby and at each other. And, unfortunately, they attack with Silly String, which, fortunately, doesn’t appear at any other time of year, including Halloween. I went into a couple of shops this morning and found: Silly String, confetti, streamers, noisemakers, blank masks for hand painting, giant bow ties, magic wands, and plastic swords. That was just one shop on a shelf opposite the leftover Valentine paraphernalia.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Parades with floats and costumed performers will grace many cities and towns—especially in Venice and Viareggio. But the real stars of the carnival season are the desserts that only appear at this time of year. Here’s a brief rundown.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Frappe</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLHXUU5YYWnyz6DcUhSoKPT03gLHkp7jFzAiZzVldhFATTaEG2jMF4GmP07glmDVMwRdJHmyy479nQHWOYo2ihq5rGvAN7lCPOKL9ClSVBoaQzTWsfKfq90-F9fWO0MPwXciBLLYUgorU/s1600/frappe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLHXUU5YYWnyz6DcUhSoKPT03gLHkp7jFzAiZzVldhFATTaEG2jMF4GmP07glmDVMwRdJHmyy479nQHWOYo2ihq5rGvAN7lCPOKL9ClSVBoaQzTWsfKfq90-F9fWO0MPwXciBLLYUgorU/s1600/frappe.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">These melt-in-your-mouth tidbits are similar to a rich pie crust made with eggs. They are rolled into rectangles and cut into fluted squares. Traditionally they were fried, but in this day of frowning-at-fat, they are sometimes baked. After the frappe come out of the oil or oven, they are generously dredged with confectioner’s sugar.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Castagnole di Carnevale</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">These little balls have similar ingredients to frappe, but sugar, vanilla, and grated lemon zest are added. The mixture makes a firm, but not rigid, dough that is formed into small balls. These are always fried and dusted with either confectioner’s or normal sugar.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Frittelle di Mele</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Apple fritters, these, made by coring and slicing apples about one centimeter (1/4 inch) thick. A batter that includes the juice of a lemon and cinnamon coats the slices which are then fried. Really good served with vanilla ice cream.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Castagnole di Ricotta</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Unlike the Castagnole di Carnevale and other sweets stuffed with ricotta, the cheese becomes a part of the dough. The ricotta is mixed with eggs, flour, sugar, vanilla, baking powder, and the grated zest of a lemon and an orange. After the dough rests in the fridge for about half an hour, it’s formed into small balls and fried like the other castagnole and sprinkled with regular sugar.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Chiacchiere</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKJuED2REZxttm2u6OVh6xTMpvSHRADrrvzbRndLe69Oi0v7xSjAXjIDKvtsYn7jpkJIPko6D6NN1GWG2-vtYYzNmop-GiZIvoFfcTSQ4r5DGe0qDftKhkZBxC0G-FqSb1dlMeerq8r88/s1600/chiacchiere.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKJuED2REZxttm2u6OVh6xTMpvSHRADrrvzbRndLe69Oi0v7xSjAXjIDKvtsYn7jpkJIPko6D6NN1GWG2-vtYYzNmop-GiZIvoFfcTSQ4r5DGe0qDftKhkZBxC0G-FqSb1dlMeerq8r88/s1600/chiacchiere.jpg" height="139" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">A medium-firm dough made with flour, yeast, eggs, milk, and butter makes the basis for this popular carnival treat. Once the dough has risen, it is rolled into a thin rectangle and sprinkled with sugar and lemon zest. The dough is then folded over itself several times, forming a roll. The roll is cut into short pieces which are then fried. The hot oil carmelizes the sugar and the layers open something like a fan. It’s a gooey, concoction, sometimes covered in colored sprinkles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Ravioli Fritti</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Sweet fried ravioli comes from a dough laced with the ever-present lemon zest and a couple of spoonfuls of white wine. When the dough is rolled out into a thin rectangle, it is cut into fluted circles. Half the circles are filled with a spoonful of either ricotta, marmalade, or Nutella. The remaining circles top the filling and each ravioli is sealed then fried and sprinkled with confectioner’s sugar.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Many Variations</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Many variations to these sweets exist throughout the country, usually with regional twists. In some places, for example, the chiacchiere resemble frappe. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">I hope I’ve whetted your appetite.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"><i>Please visit my website at www.PatriciaWinton.com</i> </span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-22925629862841590972014-02-05T13:27:00.000+01:002014-02-05T13:28:53.068+01:00Sweet Nothings<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">I’ve taken a hiatus from writing the blog, but I’m back now and will be posting again every Wednesday. I’ve missed you. Thanks to those who contacted me to let me know you missed me, too.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">The driver stretched out in the cab of his truck. He’d been hauling this load for several hours, starting in the Piedmont region of northern Italy. He’d just winded his way through Rome’s traffic nightmare and wanted to catch 40 winks before heading south. He was certainly asleep when disaster struck. Was he dreaming of a wife he might have left in the north? Or of a mistress he might see in the south? Or perhaps just of the sweet cargo resting in the trailer behind him.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKuxfW_oqsXed58vjZf-FqTyGz_F4ylVRocS-TF5kb1092I1jrV4nEAClz7T33Qss9YyzhvBdmR3LIlh7iVaD0iFqHwBnNqIrnq4Q4cj2RVaFKHanxM1MsvbiWaC5vPSR0btjuBy1r8DY/s1600/images.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKuxfW_oqsXed58vjZf-FqTyGz_F4ylVRocS-TF5kb1092I1jrV4nEAClz7T33Qss9YyzhvBdmR3LIlh7iVaD0iFqHwBnNqIrnq4Q4cj2RVaFKHanxM1MsvbiWaC5vPSR0btjuBy1r8DY/s1600/images.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Whatever his dream, three men waked him and unceremoniously pulled him from the truck, breaking his nose in the scuffle. They left him lying on the pavement and drove his rig back onto the highway. An alert witness called the state police who arrived in short order. After a high speed chase—and that truck was no match for those police cars—the police pulled over the truck, filled with jars of Nutella worth about 200 thousand euros (270,200 USD). The thieves went to jail and the driver, who was suffering from shock in addition to the broken nose, went to the hospital.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">This robbery, mirrored by one last spring in Germany netting 5 1/2 tons of the stuff, underscores Nutella’s popularity. Glass jars filled with a gooey chocolate spread seems like a delicate target for thieves, but as the Italian press gleefully noted, they obviously had a sweet tooth.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">This year, 2014, marks the 50th anniversary of this fine Italian treat. The idea of combining hazelnuts with chocolate originated in Turin in 1852 with the chocolate confectioner Cafferel. The confection, called </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">granduja </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">after a carnival character popular in the Piedmont region, remains popular today.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipIVYRRokr3btQTiWo2dth7G32BHlfD59D2cWmHFVD0SGbHrZFLkyMjMMHNbjzTJbrB8MaGzxb-hRY1lRsfSw7qh1q_MDU_wuJJ28frwIk4eVJi6gbgvBE_AM0BXgQhjIBMdEhGpc_nuM/s1600/crepe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipIVYRRokr3btQTiWo2dth7G32BHlfD59D2cWmHFVD0SGbHrZFLkyMjMMHNbjzTJbrB8MaGzxb-hRY1lRsfSw7qh1q_MDU_wuJJ28frwIk4eVJi6gbgvBE_AM0BXgQhjIBMdEhGpc_nuM/s1600/crepe.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Confectioner Piero Ferrero adopted this combination in the 1940s when chocolate was in short supply. By 1946, he had perfected the chocolate-hazelnut cream, originally known as </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">Granduja Paste. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">He later changed the name to “Nutella” by combining the English word “nut” with a common Italian suffix “ella” meaning “little.” </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By the time I first arrived in Italy 23 years later, Nutella was readily available in shops. I loved to eat it back then spread on a thick slice of Tuscan (unsalted) bread. I never ate it any other way in those days. When I returned to the US in 1971, I went into Nutella withdrawal because my lovely spread hadn’t yet traveled across the Atlantic. I had to wait another 12 years before being able to indulge when Ferrero began exporting it to America in 1983.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">It’s popularity in Italy continues to soar. Now you can find all kinds of desserts filled or spread with Nutella—from crepes to pizza—but it remains a fixture at the breakfast table. I had to laugh a couple of years ago when a California court ruled against Ferrero for advertising Nutella as a breakfast food. Not a </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">healthy</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> breakfast food, mind you, just a breakfast food. I’d argue that neither Cocoa Puffs nor Pop Tarts make a better breakfast. But I digress.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Today is unofficial World Nutella Day, a celebration created by product fan Sara Rosso, who </span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://www.msadventuresinitaly.com/blog/"></a><a href="http://www.msadventuresinitaly.com/blog/"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">blogs</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> about food and Italy. Nutella’s lawyers contacted her last May to “cease and desist” using the product name and logo on her site. But they’ve worked it out. Ferrero is pleased to have such loyal fans, and Ms. Rosso is no longer using the Nutella logo on her site.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">I hope you’ll spread a bit of Nutella on your toast today.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">Please visit my website at</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="www.PatriciaWinton.com"></a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/www.PatriciaWinton.com"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">www.PatriciaWinton.com</span></a></div>
Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-51032532829847904592013-08-15T12:14:00.000+02:002013-08-15T12:14:36.702+02:00Tears of St. Lawrence<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">The Perseid meteor shower we enjoyed earlier this week is known as the “Tears of St. Lawrence” here in Italy. St. Lawrence’s feast day falls on August 10 at the beginning of the annual Perseids, and it is widely celebrated here. Lawrence is remembered for two things. The first is his association with the Holy Chalice, the cup purportedly used by Christ at the Last Supper. According to tradition, the cup passed from St. Peter, the first pope, to his successors until 258 when the Roman government demanded that all church relics be turned over to them. The pope at the time, Sixtus II, gave the cup to Lawrence, one of his deacons. Lawrence, who hailed from Spain, is said to have sent the chalice to his parents there.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Italian celebrations to St. Lawrence sometimes focus on the chalice theme. A group called Chalice of the Stars organizes stargazing events on August 10. Across Italy, people gather in piazzas to drink wine as a toast to St. Lawrence and to watch the Perseids. This year, the sky was clear, and the show glowed.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grill believed to be used to martyr St. Lawrence</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Lawrence’s death marks his second claim to fame, the reason he rose to sainthood. As a deacon, he held the responsibility of distributing alms to the poor. When the persecuting Romans executed Pope Sextus II, the Prefect of Rome ordered Lawrence to show him all the church’s treasures. Lawrence complied by lining up true believers and offering them as the jewels of the church. The enraged prefect sentenced Lawrence to death by barbecue. He was tied to a large metal grill and placed over a slow fire where he was slowly cooked to death. Legend has it that midway through he called out, “I’m done on this side; turn me over.” Thus St. Lawrence is the patron saint of cooks and chefs.</span></div>
Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-58371563665967780282013-08-08T09:16:00.000+02:002013-08-08T09:16:07.865+02:00August Snow in Rome<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">It rarely snows in Rome, even in the depths of winter, but it snowed in Rome this past Monday, August 5. The temperatures have been hovering around 36 C (upper 90s F). But on Monday, snow fell outside the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, also known as the Madonna of the Snow. The snow was artificial, of course. People stood outside the basilica in summer clothing awaiting the cool flakes to fall.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">The annual event reenacts the Miracle of the Madonna of the Snow dating from the 350s when Pope Liberius dreamed that the Virgin Mary told him to build a church where snow fell. On the scorching night between August 4 and 5, according to the legend, snow fell on the Esquiline Hill. The basilica, one of the five in Rome belonging to the Vatican) was completed in 440.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Another version of the legend holds that a wealthy couple without heirs prayed to the Virgin for guidance on how to dispose of their property. Snow fell on that August 4-5 night, and the Virgin appeared to them in a vision, telling them to build a church where the snow had fallen. According to </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">this</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> legend, </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">they</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> built the basilica. We know them only as “a patrician named John and his wife.”</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzO4JyuCE7kRCnak4jTrXS63Ia7OSgAHeM3B1O6QkjMbR3y79tGWPhDVqSVDqvzesK6EaFWe7jgExsmj0l6a22pYyWD6CZD3EMf2F5akLxC_UmR6ruWJT8TE5W0BggoM9P6qai3ND34U/s1600/nevicata_08_672-458_resize.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzO4JyuCE7kRCnak4jTrXS63Ia7OSgAHeM3B1O6QkjMbR3y79tGWPhDVqSVDqvzesK6EaFWe7jgExsmj0l6a22pYyWD6CZD3EMf2F5akLxC_UmR6ruWJT8TE5W0BggoM9P6qai3ND34U/s320/nevicata_08_672-458_resize.jpg" width="212" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">The Catholic church took no notice to either legend for about 1000 years. The celebration of the feast has had a varied history, celebrated first in Rome only, then in other churches around the world. Today, it’s celebrated as the Dedication of the Basilica.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">On August 5, during the celebration of two masses at Santa Maria Maggiore—in the morning and at vespers—white petals float from the dome onto the congregation. Originally these petals were from roses; today, they’re from dahlias. Beginning at 9 PM, a light show illuminates the exterior of the basilica. The festivities continue to midnight. Midway through the show, artificial snow falls on the crowd.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Last year, the truck delivering the snow equipment broke down en route and the event was postponed to </span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://italianintrigues.blogspot.it/2012/08/celebrating-harvest.html"></a><a href="http://italianintrigues.blogspot.it/2012/08/celebrating-harvest.html"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Ferragosto</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> (August 15—one of Italy’s premier holidays). Just thinking about the snow can cool you down on a sweltering August night.</span></div>
Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-11337771918584612592013-08-02T11:03:00.000+02:002013-08-02T11:03:46.955+02:00Buone Vacanze!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today is August 1st, the traditional start of vacation in Italy. People are heading for the beach or the mountains, and are planning picnics and barbecues. I hope you are having a splendid time. Buone Vacanze!</span></span>Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-53890150286509615452013-07-25T07:00:00.000+02:002013-07-27T00:17:23.181+02:00Cleaning House<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large; font-style: italic;">I’ve spent the last two weeks having my apartment in Rome refurbished with a parade of workers coming and going. My place is quite small, and everything has had to be moved from place to place as the work progressed. I have lots of books and papers, and they all had to come down so the furniture could be moved. Below is the diary I kept one busy day at the midpoint of the process.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">I’m sitting at my desk before my computer screen. Chaos reigns, even here, as two plumbers and one painter work their magic in my tiny abode. I slept last night on half my bed—the other half piled with sofa cushions and assorted pillows. I got to the bed via a small pathway between the chest of drawers that belongs there and the kitchen table that definitely does not.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">I follow the same trail out of bed and into my breakfast spot where the painter has left me space to make coffee. I drink it sitting on the terrace which hosts the painter’s supplies, a refrigerator, two ladders, and three lamps plus the things that belong there like plants, a watering can, and assorted outdoor furniture. I’m surprisingly calm.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maurizio the Painter</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">At the moment, the painter is rolling paint onto the ceiling. One plumber is assembling the base cabinet that will replace the rotted one under the sink in the kitchen. The other is on a ladder working on the toilet tank (they are high on the wall here in Italy).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">The plumber discovers that I’ve left some things under the sink, and I go to remove them. The first thing I do is pick up the basin collecting water under an open pipe and promptly dump it on the floor. A bit of mopping, and I complete the task. The plumber rips out the base.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">The painter takes a snack break with </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large; font-style: italic;">grissini</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;"> (bread sticks); he offers me one and I accept. The plumbers take a smoke break while I scour the mess behind and under the old sink. What horrible grime! I spray it all with bleach and hope that I haven’t transmitted anything serious to some guest who’s eaten here. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">Now the plumbers are fitting the sink over the new base cabinet—it has five drawers! The painter stands astride his ladder covering the horrible orange paint the the previous resident chose with my pale gray. He’s humming “Love Is a Many-Splendored Thing.”</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Francesco the Plumber</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">The water’s turned off while the plumbers replace the kitchen faucet. I forget, go to the bathroom, and flush. Quite a noise comes from the water tank, but nobody chastises me. I skulk back to my desk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">The plumbers have gone now, taking a wad of my cash. The painter is humming a different tune, but he’s still cheerful. He says we may be finished by Tuesday. The air is so humid that the paint is drying slowly, and he can’t do the 12 hours of work he had promised me. Oh, well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;">I’m alone at last. There are still more coats of paint to be spread</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: 'Arial';">—</span>in Italian, a coat of paint is a <i>mano</i> (hand). This lull is relaxing with my new calm paint color. I'm sipping a glass of wine and <i>mi riposo</i> (I'm resting). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: large;"><i>This day turned out </i>not <i>to be the most stressful one. That came on the next-to-last day when I had two painters plus an electrician tripping over each other. Most of the work took place in the bathroom that day, so I had to shoo them all out when I needed the facilities. It became much more stressful when they took the bathroom door off. My sister says I felt stressed because it had been a long time since I'd had to ask permission to go to the bathroom.</i></span></div>
Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-52816049455025686842013-07-18T07:00:00.000+02:002013-07-19T08:02:08.022+02:00An Afternoon Drink<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small; font-style: italic;">My apartment is teeming with painters, plumbers, and electricians. I’ve finally put my office back together, but I haven’t written a post this week. I published this piece last year at </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">Novel Adventurers </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small; font-style: italic;">when the topic of the week was “Beverages.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">This topic turned out to be a difficult one for me because there are too many choices in Italy! </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small; font-style: italic;">Coffee</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">? Espresso or cappuccino, caffè macchiato or latte macchiato. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small; font-style: italic;">Wine</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">? Red, white, or pink, house or vintage. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small; font-style: italic;">Water</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">? Mineral or tap, fizzy or still. My mind swirled with the possibilities. I needed to clear my head, so I went for a walk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">The afternoon </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small; font-style: italic;">passeggiata</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;"> is a time-honored tradition in Italy. People stroll down the avenues and window shop; they linger in piazzas and gossip; they admire babies in pushcarts; they greet friends and neighbors. And, if they don’t favor a gelato, they usually stop by a bar for an </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small; font-style: italic;">aperitivo</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;"> before going home to dinner.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">At my neighborhood bar, family and friends cluster around tables for this ritual. Many Italians rarely drink alcohol, just a celebratory sip of wine at birthdays and Holy Communion. For these people, </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small; font-style: italic;">bitter</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;"> (pronounced BEE tare) is the drink of choice. This herbal-based brew is a refreshing carbonated confection that comes in red or white, like wine. Oranges give the red its color and strengthen its flavor. Most bitter is bottled in 100 ml glass containers‒about three and a half ounces. Kept in the cooler, bitter is served with a slice of lemon or orange. These should not be confused with </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small; font-style: italic;">amaro</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;"> (the Italian word for bitter) which is a </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small; font-style: italic;">digestivo</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;"> and served after dinner.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">For the people who want a bit of kick with their aperitivo, Campari reigns as the drink of choice. Also based on various herbs, straight Campari has about 20 percent alcoholic content, but it usually comes as Campari Soda at 10 percent. Sometimes served over ice, Campari Soda is also accompanied by a slice of lemon or orange. Campari is the key ingredient in a variety of cocktails rarely, if ever, served in my neighborhood bar. The best-known of these, Negroni, contains Campari, gin, and red vermouth.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFM3TQwkWAmmC49oQnKou8XdkEJDXEItSwFLn9D4e0azc_thyphenhyphenqmgJnLpXA4zHUSkhH6KUmEI8HBrl3_QXLQW0RaBUqi3ms2eisq3XipugRMnz3LZ2OFYztKuZrSZOje8Mlye1XlAYNQA/s1600/sweet+vermouth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFM3TQwkWAmmC49oQnKou8XdkEJDXEItSwFLn9D4e0azc_thyphenhyphenqmgJnLpXA4zHUSkhH6KUmEI8HBrl3_QXLQW0RaBUqi3ms2eisq3XipugRMnz3LZ2OFYztKuZrSZOje8Mlye1XlAYNQA/s320/sweet+vermouth.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">Vermouth steps up as the next favored aperitivo. The vermouth that stars in the standard martini just doesn’t do it, either. Italian vermouth comes in sweet and dry, red and white. The choices never end. Yet another herbal-based confection, Italian vermouth varies by brand, the most popular being Cinzano. But, even the lesser-known can satisfy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">During aperitivo hour, children probably drink Cokes, and at least one person is sure to have a glass of mineral water. That’s a perfectly acceptable drink at the bar.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">When the drinks arrive, the staff also brings snacks. These can be as simple as a bowl of potato chips and a plate of olives. Other times, there are small sandwiches and tiny pizzas. You might get fried potatoes or strips of prosciutto, rounds of salami or pieces of cheese. The same establishment may be generous with the snacks one day and stingy the next. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: small;">After drinking and snacking, I’m not sure that I really need dinner.</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial';"></span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-12953170873329951922013-07-11T07:00:00.000+02:002013-07-11T07:51:26.169+02:00Notes from Florence<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">I visited Florence last week. Here are some brief observations that I made. I’ll write more about some of these topics a bit later in the year.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Bicycles rule</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">. Although I’ve been to the city many times, I’d never noticed so many foot-powered two-wheelers. My Florentine friend tells me that with increased restrictions on motorized vehicles, bicycles are the way to go. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">There are many places where motorized traffic is limited to taxis, emergency vehicles, and busses. There are lots of bicycle rental stands for tourists, and bicycle parking racks are among the biggest I’ve ever seen. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQuqC4XkFzzvSkJbVbCayOtSlDwtZhwBqLt68DDuf9jG1T4eL7ZwtY8TkW6a5nkG0SY_R2zxmYvzn_2ienlQmzmpL6O686a0NJio1VD21yaArXB7pmocj_NI-eGx-iGwIRAS0OlcY-ylU/s1600/trashcube.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQuqC4XkFzzvSkJbVbCayOtSlDwtZhwBqLt68DDuf9jG1T4eL7ZwtY8TkW6a5nkG0SY_R2zxmYvzn_2ienlQmzmpL6O686a0NJio1VD21yaArXB7pmocj_NI-eGx-iGwIRAS0OlcY-ylU/s1600/trashcube.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Florence is much cleaner than Rome</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">. There’s less litter on the streets—even cigarette butts. And even though Rome—at least in my neighborhood—has daily garbage pickup, there’s always piles of trash lying outside the dumpsters, including the recycling bins. Florence is experimenting with a new collection system called Trashcube. The bins are actually underground. Above ground chutes, that close after use, guide the trash into appropriate receptacles for organic matter, recyclable material, and non-recyclables. And I came across municipal workers hosing down bins after they had been emptied.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">The weird house numbers</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">. The first time I visited Florence looking for a specific street address, I despaired of finding the place. The numbers read, in order, something like this: 24, 26, 28, 30. Suddenly the next numbers were 127, 129, before reverting back to 32.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">I’ve since learned that the original numbering system, dating back for centuries, assigned black numbers to residential buildings and red ones to commercial properties. Over time, some of the distinctions no longer apply because a former residential building may have become commercial and vice versa. The original numbers have been retained. Florentine addresses are given as Via ____ 34n (the “n” for nero, black) or 127r (rosso, red). Today, the black numbers are often blue, and in large properties that have changed purpose or have been subdivided, the colors may no longer ring true.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">I dodged a bullet</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">. One afternoon I sat in the tranquil piazza in front of the home of the late Magdalene Nabb, mystery writer extraordinaire. Friends were chatting on benches; a crazed drunken woman sat on the edge of the fountain, spouting a litany of complaints; children ran around chasing pigeons. Suddenly, I felt a thud against my chest. I thought a pigeon had landed until I saw a young girl kicking around a rather large rock. She’d hit me then went merrily on her way. I’m lucky the rock hit the purse I cradled instead of my face. What an ignominious end that would have been!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Language lesson</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">. On my first night, I had a pizza at a pleasant cafe. A little girl sitting at the table to my left kept flirting with me. She didn’t speak—possibly hadn’t yet learned to talk, but she practiced her gestures. She pointed; I pointed back. She waved; I waved back. She clapped; I echoed her. She gestured, ‘come here;’ so did I.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">At the table on my right, three college-aged guys kept switching languages. One spoke primarily German, though he appeared to be Japanese. Then he’d speak in perfect English. One appeared to be Italian, but his English was quite good.The third appeared to be American, but he could switch to Italian mid-sentence.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">When the waiter brought their bill, they calculated what each owed and asked to pay each part with a different credit card. The poor waiter, who spoke very little English, became somewhat confused by this turn of events. The American student gave the amounts, in English, and the waiter repeated in Italian as he wrote down the amounts. I heard the American say, “Fifty for this one,” and the waiter say, “Quindici per questa.” The waiter had understood 15 for 50, a common error—even for mother-tongue speakers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">I didn’t want to jump in to a conversation that was clearly none of my business, but I learned later that they got it all sorted out at the register. When the waiter brought my bill, I asked him about it and gave him a mini-English lesson: </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">Dov’è l’accento, c’è la cifra. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">(The digit is where you hear the accent.) FIFty is 50; fifTEEN is 15. He was very pleased and asked I teach English in Florence. Too bad I had to say “No.”</span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-81572421076696879782013-07-04T07:00:00.000+02:002013-07-04T07:00:06.974+02:00All Roads Lead to Rome<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton</span>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Appian Way</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">We all know the phrase. It means the same as “There’s more than one way to skin a cat.” That is, there’s more than one way to reach a goal or to get what you want. But did you know that the phrase has an historical origin? That at one time, all roads—at least in the known Western world—did lead to Rome? From ancient times, Romans constructed a network of paved courses going south to ports leading to other points on the Mediterranean and north to points over the Alps. These arteries originally provided efficient modes for troop movement but eventually became trade routes as well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Construction on the first road, Via Appia (the Appian Way), began in 312 BC and eventually proceeded 122 miles southeast to Brindisi—a port town for ships heading for Greece and Africa. Other roads followed including the Via Flaminia, the Via Cassia, the Via Aurelia, and others, radiating from Rome like sunbeams. Some of these early roads take their names from the builder. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fragment of the Golden Milestone</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Emperor Caesar Augustus consolidated road-building and established the</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-style: italic;">Milliarium Aureum</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial';"> (Golden Milestone) in the Roman Forum. From this point, distances along roads throughout the Roman empire were measured and milestones were erected. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Eventually, the network included 400,000 km. of roads throughout the republic.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial';">The network throughout the Italian peninsula has proved to be so valuable that modern roads have been build parallel to the originals. The Via Appia has become the Appia Nuova (New Appian Way) but most of the others simply retain the old name while the old road is called, for example, the Flaminia Originale (Original Flaminia). Railway lines often follow the course as well.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Via Flaminia and Flaminia Originale</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial';">Many of the roadways still exist in Italy. There’s a section of the Appian Way that hosts limited traffic, but other parts make beautiful walking or bicycling tracks. Recently, I wandered on a section of the Via Flaminia still in use by a limited number of residents living along that stretch. It apparently gets visits from local garbage trucks, too, because I saw trash bins awaiting pickup! And sections of Roman roads have been unearthed throughout the reach of the empire.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial';">With all these roads leading to Rome, is it any wonder that the city has some of the worst traffic congestion in Europe?<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm5zwxMbpAfPefrpJS_g1ge6d16L-NbYMNmy8Hj9_-XNOUTQ-zTUcRvHEywp7Vwi3k38i7p7Rmnp8Z26qf1SqytZoQ9YxGjjT0aU_LBMPw2JUXrJgKqewFwRBNZtNWp57bfgqMo-vvLIs/s600/Traffic+jam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm5zwxMbpAfPefrpJS_g1ge6d16L-NbYMNmy8Hj9_-XNOUTQ-zTUcRvHEywp7Vwi3k38i7p7Rmnp8Z26qf1SqytZoQ9YxGjjT0aU_LBMPw2JUXrJgKqewFwRBNZtNWp57bfgqMo-vvLIs/s400/Traffic+jam.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traffic near the Golden Milestone fragment</td></tr>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-56170575073227588312013-06-28T09:05:00.002+02:002013-06-28T09:05:45.440+02:00Return<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAaYuEek9IMbJ9jgIgSer-iZfTSSx3m4mb_NVYPMFb3Rdq6-nwajYd7Ira4NeJV8XXvMpexzoulhiW53ja3waHnpOHZVfCtFoUm__1KFVcRvm5_h6eBKvB7WPo3Wn842-tBx1H2F48N1w/s227/lambrusco2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAaYuEek9IMbJ9jgIgSer-iZfTSSx3m4mb_NVYPMFb3Rdq6-nwajYd7Ira4NeJV8XXvMpexzoulhiW53ja3waHnpOHZVfCtFoUm__1KFVcRvm5_h6eBKvB7WPo3Wn842-tBx1H2F48N1w/s227/lambrusco2.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">In my first post at<a href="http://italianintrigues.blogspot.it/2011/03/does-world-need-another-blog.html" target="_blank"> Italian Intrigues</a>, I asked “Does the World Need Another Blog?” While I expressed skepticism, I launched this effort. And strangely, when I was invited to join the awesome team at <a href="http://noveladventurers.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Novel Adventurers </a>six months later, I jumped aboard with enthusiasm. During the past 18 months, I’ve had divided loyalties, enjoying the teamwork and camaraderie offered by the group blog and the focus provided by this one devoted to things Italian. Sometimes, I've been stretched too thin, and my efforts here suffered, I think.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">My stint at <i>Novel Adventurers</i> is drawing to a close. From now on, my posts will be here, with guest pieces on other blogs from time to time. I hope you will continue to read and enjoy. In the future I'll be writing about weather superstitions, about maladies that seem to occur only in Italy, and as always, about the unbeatable cuisine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">I hope you'll continue to read.</span></div>
Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-9856567958042978892013-06-23T07:39:00.000+02:002013-06-25T04:40:06.909+02:00Drinking Walnuts<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">On a mid-summer evening a few years ago, I joined a group of Italian friends for dinner. Seven of us gathered around a large kitchen table and feasted on lasagna as the first course—a staple for dinner parties because the cook can prepare the pasta ahead of time with no last minute prep needed. On the terrace, our host barbecued fat sausages, steak, and chicken along with eggplant, zucchini, and red peppers. A sumptuous—and typical—Italian summer feast.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Afterward, we ate splendid peaches and cherries. When we were sated, out came the espresso and tiny glasses that signaled a digestivo would follow. When our host brought out the bottle, the Italians began muttering, “Oh, Nocino!” and “Did you make it yourselves?” and “Did you gather the noci at San Giovanni?”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">When the dense syrup trickled into my glass, everyone gazed at me. They held their breath as I lifted the glass and sipped. My mouth tingled with a hint of cinnamon and cloves. When I swallowed, the flavor of walnuts lingered. The silence evaporated as everyone began talking at once to let me in on the secret. I understood nothing. Finally, order prevailed, and as I continued taking tiny sips, the story emerged.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4VmoU7A66E0YNlGEbwSRJM7s2Liud6mw_ptwSqaae7J9fTSk3z3CR8UupNVc-AOZduc56310LVGEHXVaY2KsIhsNnfEHzCAnlIeDoxa0tfH0ZiLLIFRkcUJ78LoM4Tlro7tXq556Hs0/s1600/green+walnuts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4VmoU7A66E0YNlGEbwSRJM7s2Liud6mw_ptwSqaae7J9fTSk3z3CR8UupNVc-AOZduc56310LVGEHXVaY2KsIhsNnfEHzCAnlIeDoxa0tfH0ZiLLIFRkcUJ78LoM4Tlro7tXq556Hs0/s200/green+walnuts.jpg" width="179" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">An ancient belief held that the dew on the shortest night of the year was a panacea for every illness, especially digestive problems and liver ailments. Traditionally, midsummer was celebrated between June 21 and June 25. In Italy, that became the birthday of St. John the Baptist (June 24). Thus, the dew on the night of June 23 was the most revered.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Walnuts have always been linked to witches and spells, and the superstition required that the dew on the walnuts be collected by a barefoot virgin to counteract those spells. She was supposed to climb the tree and collect the walnuts without using metal to cut them. The following morning, the liqueur was mixed and set to age until the night before All Saints Day—Halloween—when it was sipped to ward off those witches and spells.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Today, few barefoot virgins collect the walnuts, but some people enjoy the tradition of making the liqueur. That early in the summer, the green walnuts can be easily cut into quarters. They are placed in a glass jar; flavored with cinnamon sticks, cloves, and lemon peel; sweetened with sugar; and infused with grain alcohol and sometimes a bit of red wine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Nocino is made commercially in Modena (home of balsamic vinegar) where a group called Ordine del Nocino Modenese promotes the region’s Nocino. So, if you don’t have a walnut tree handy, or a barefoot virgin available to collect the nuts, perhaps you can sample this wonderful after-dinner drink at home anyway.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"><i>Today’s post is late, but it coincides with the day for collecting the walnuts, June 23. Changes are coming to</i> Italian Intrigues. <i>Beginning next week, I’ll be posting here every Thursday.My last essay at </i><a href="http://noveladventurers.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Novel Adventurers</a><i> will appear next week as well.</i></span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-63496471794374397912013-06-06T07:00:00.000+02:002013-06-06T07:00:04.806+02:00A Summer Treat—Pesto<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">I’m writing this post under duress. Not duress, exactly, but under orders.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">There’s a woman in Rome who’s been my student for the past ten years. We meet weekly just to talk, to help keep her English speaking skills honed. Last week, I checked the time just as I rang the bell and was horrified to discover that I was an hour early. When she opened the door, I offered to go away for an hour, but she ushered me into the kitchen. “I’m cooking,” she said and steered me to a chair. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Strictly speaking, she wasn’t cooking. She was preparing pesto. As she stripped the basil</span></div>
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leaves from the stalks and chunked the Parmigiano-Reggiano, I had a ringside seat. We chatted as we do about this and that. When she finished, I got to sample the finished product. And she said to me, “When you put this in your blog, you have to say it’s Olimpia Pallavicino’s recipe—not yours.” And so it is.<br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Olimpia didn’t measure anything; she just prepared it by instinct. I’ve tried to standardize the recipe, using American measurements (with metric equivalents in parentheses).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 600;">Pesto Milanese</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">1/3 cup pine nuts (40 grams) Olimpia stressed that you must use the best pine nuts you can find.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (45 grams)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">1/2 to 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil (120-160 ml)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">1 clove garlic (optional) Olimpia omitted the garlic.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGq5bTpGJqVp4hyAJdWIwdyJSQ6hUAjkeT2cRyZAITGhboLT6UaQVzRNtuNJFNiTw7iIHUO5vhdrhHDfM9PbPlabkhWbQj-csQ-HsnYt4L-cvmi3Aiv4HkBzhkWXYZRORVv5fynfCjqZQ/s1600/fusilli-pesto-large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGq5bTpGJqVp4hyAJdWIwdyJSQ6hUAjkeT2cRyZAITGhboLT6UaQVzRNtuNJFNiTw7iIHUO5vhdrhHDfM9PbPlabkhWbQj-csQ-HsnYt4L-cvmi3Aiv4HkBzhkWXYZRORVv5fynfCjqZQ/s320/fusilli-pesto-large.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Place all the ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Olimpia did not grate the cheese. Instead she added it in chunks. She used a blender, and it took a while for the cheese to be completely pulverized. As a result, the pesto was very smooth.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Olimpia planned to serve the pesto with rice that evening, but for pasta she recommended using fusilli because there are so many nooks and crannies for the pesto to cling to.</span></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-64809178279293652022013-05-23T07:00:00.000+02:002013-05-23T12:38:46.474+02:00The Tiramisù Is Out of This World<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvqnd1Omg-_N44EGgNAthSqzjTWkd5_KAJMUYnatfldQyRVHapLV_zL3B6V98SU8XSYf_2qrXHB5521KkXZh5NBOQpiDl969IY-Ia_XZIotznB1XssQ5D9GqSdGqWAMlQXJTDb1nlmE0/s1600/Head+shot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvqnd1Omg-_N44EGgNAthSqzjTWkd5_KAJMUYnatfldQyRVHapLV_zL3B6V98SU8XSYf_2qrXHB5521KkXZh5NBOQpiDl969IY-Ia_XZIotznB1XssQ5D9GqSdGqWAMlQXJTDb1nlmE0/s320/Head+shot.jpg" width="230" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">When Italian astronaut Luca Parmitano arrives at the International Space Station next week, he’ll be dining on familiar food. The new ISS menu includes lasagna, </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">risotto</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> with pesto and another with mushrooms, </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">caponata</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> (a mixed vegetable dish including eggplant, zucchini, onions, and tomatoes), eggplant Parmesan, and for dessert—</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">tiramisù</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">. While it isn’t the first time an Italian has gone to the space station, it’s the first time for authentic Italian food. Heretofore, meals consumed there originated with the United States space agency, NASA, or its Russian counterpart, </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Roskosmos</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Chef Davide Scabin, whose Combal.Zero in Castello di Rivoli, near Turin, ranks as one of the world’s 50 best restaurants and holds two Michelin stars, developed the menu. He spent a year and a half researching ways to devise tasty, flavorful dishes while adhering to NASA’s strict guidelines.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWsFuzQkFuTZEboyztBHPB25N8MAFqElQsU2VU54ZexlLS07ot19VvvzULCQtjLFbcUteZz8yNUwvG-SmM6TiWqDro-H2JQaCIGtalk6CQOH-XkG6cYJlpIJfXAqa7YxBOm6gXKkZjDp4/s1600/davide-scabin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWsFuzQkFuTZEboyztBHPB25N8MAFqElQsU2VU54ZexlLS07ot19VvvzULCQtjLFbcUteZz8yNUwvG-SmM6TiWqDro-H2JQaCIGtalk6CQOH-XkG6cYJlpIJfXAqa7YxBOm6gXKkZjDp4/s320/davide-scabin.jpg" width="243" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">All food headed for the space station must be treated to remove bacterial contamination, dehydrated, and packed in individual aluminum pouches. Each meal must also have a 36-month shelf life and be prepared without salt. Against this rigorous backdrop, Chef Scabin discovered another challenge. “The olfactory system doesn’t function at 100 percent in space. The astronauts eat with the sensation of having a cold,” he said in a recent interview. He further explained that for flavors to be fully appreciated, both the senses of taste and smell must work together.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Chef Scabin experimented with ways to concentrate the flavor in the foods he prepared. He developed 15 different dishes—including Parmitano’s requested lasagna and risotto—before settling on the five that have already arrived on the ISS.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">The scheme to send Italian food into space has given a boost to the </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">Made in Italy</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> program that promotes Italian products at home and abroad and has renewed interest in scientific studies. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">The dishes were unveiled with much fanfare in February </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">at an event for the Italian and European space agencies and government dignitaries. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Chef Scabin himself placed a plate of lasagna in front of Parmitano. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Afterwards, Parmitano embarked on a tour of schools engaging students in discussions of the importance of studying science. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Parmitano talked about the experiments that he will be doing on the space station, including work with emulsions that have applications in many fields, including paints. He adds, “Being Italian there is one field that is important to me, again it is the culinary art: a lot of the things that we make when we cook are emulsions.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">The</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> dishes in the new menu</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> have also been sampled by members of an international astronaut training program. One element of the training includes sending a multi-national group of astronauts into a cave for a week to gain experience working in a confined space in a multicultural environment. Before going underground in </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Sardinia, the astronauts gave thumbs up to Chef Scabin’s food. The </span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAGoHyNh4Ug"></a><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAGoHyNh4Ug"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">beginning</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> of this video shows their reactions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Everyone eating the Italian space food is getting a good value. The average price per person for a meal at Combal.Zero is 160 euros—about 200 dollars. Chef Scabin has dropped hints that there is a “special celebration meal” for the ISS crew. Since Parmitano turns 37 on September 27, I’m guessing that’ll include birthday cake.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">Astronaut Luca Parmitano will be blogging, in English, from space. You can follow him </span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://blogs.esa.int/luca-parmitano/category/luca-blog/"></a><a href="http://blogs.esa.int/luca-parmitano/category/luca-blog/"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">here</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">. I blog on alternate Thursdays at</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://NovelAdventurers.blogspot.com"></a><a href="http://noveladventurers.blogspot.com/"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Novel Adventurers</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">where next week I write about a 19th century woman who revolutionized the way travel guides are written. Please visit my website</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://www.PatriciaWinton.com"></a><a href="http://www.patriciawinton.com/"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">www.PatriciaWinton.com</span></a></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-21047494968899798772013-05-09T10:01:00.000+02:002013-05-10T12:11:06.883+02:00The Cat in the Pan<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">By Patricia Winton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">He popped onto my TV screen soon after I moved into my first Roman apartment. The program, </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">La Prova del Cuoco—The Cook’s Challenge</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">—had been on the air for a couple of years at that point. A zany mix of professional chefs, amateur cooks, and even children, the program demonstrated the Italian obsession with food. The most serious notes came from Beppe </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp3Hg8Cih1y3tp5uvZJsaWa81AYy_NEM12tZBupM7ve_68y0y2as5TgP-eun1W-6Hfc8f44D5I4rXTY6m1D_KffeSdFWVSq9LLZH6YdGpdPeE24woBopI74p46dpNU379qk-giIAXK8Cs/s1600/La+Prova+del+Cuoco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp3Hg8Cih1y3tp5uvZJsaWa81AYy_NEM12tZBupM7ve_68y0y2as5TgP-eun1W-6Hfc8f44D5I4rXTY6m1D_KffeSdFWVSq9LLZH6YdGpdPeE24woBopI74p46dpNU379qk-giIAXK8Cs/s1600/La+Prova+del+Cuoco.jpg" /></a></div>
Begazzi, an expert on Italian cuisine, and especially, on the basic ingredients. His pedantic pronouncements about where to forage for the best porcini, how to cook bistecca fiorentina, when to eat sausage, or how to ensure the freshest salad greens provided a seriousness to the otherwise rapid pace of the show. <span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">His dark eyes and closely cropped white hair gave authority to what he said. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Often clad in a plaid shirt with a bolo tie or a sweater, he fascinated me. I’ve learned a great deal from Beppe.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">When I began creating characters for my mystery stories, I realized that my heroine needed a sidekick. A schoolmasterish figure like Beppe would do well. From this kernel of an idea, Nino Nardo emerged. He’s about 30 years younger than Beppe, who’s in his 70s. Unlike Beppe, his bald head shines above an impeccable business suit. Over time, Nino has become very real to me. He adopts his professorial voice when he wants to make sure the heroine understands something. He recognizes his weakness, and often gives her an apologetic smile when he’s gone too far.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Beppe, too, can be over the top, but in my mind, Nino is such a separate entity that his image wasn’t tarnished when Beppe fell from grace a couple of years ago. At the time, Antonella Clerici, the show’s host who had been working with Beppe for several years, was on maternity leave. She knew how to slow him when he rode his hobby horse too fast. Her replacement, a former beauty queen named Elisa Isoardi, did not.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">In the segment that got him fired, he talked about </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">coniglio del tetto—roof rabbbit—</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">a term used to describe cats. In earlier shows, he had talked about how people ate everything, including cats, during the hungry 1930s and 40s. On the broadcast in question, he gave a recipe. Poor Elisa stood mute, even sinking behind props, as Beppe described how to wash the cat in a flowing stream for three days before cooking. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">As I look at the program in </span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=fvwp&v=bKw9r3Z8dBY"></a><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=fvwp&v=bKw9r3Z8dBY"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Youtube</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> now, I think he was winding her up. The station’s manager had recently announced that Elisa would remain on the show, barring Antonella’s return after her maternity leave. I think Beppe was quite possibly trying to demonstrate what little control Elisa had. Animal rights groups denounced the program, talk shows debated the issue,</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> and Beppe didn’t return. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Antonella told journalists that she knew how to keep Beppe in check, but Elisa’s lips quivered as she spoke about her cat, Othello.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Things are back to normal in the world of television now. Antonella hosts the show again, and last year, Beppe returned as well. In my fictional world, Nino is headed for trouble, but not for eating cats.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">I write on alternate Thursdays at</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://NovelAdventurers.blogspot.com"></a><a href="http://noveladventurers.blogspot.com/"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">Novel Adventurers</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt;">. </span><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">I hope you’ll drop by. And please visit my website at </span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://www.PatriciaWinton.com"></a><a href="http://www.patriciawinton.com/"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">www.PatriciaWinton.com</span></a></div>
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-73920657076976170782013-04-18T07:00:00.000+02:002013-04-18T07:00:03.407+02:00A Rite of Spring<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">By
Patricia Winton</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEe3ZaViH5PDCOrojGWA6ZWGwIlATiWqczqNNjrQbZjDdLFYOblV4pBnENQbo1iPBi-9rdN-xzdAZtgZTTyxMv7acVKRDWXYkrRjpgaU79bjlDlreM2lf47WHyw3VVukEiRqXLJETyDHU/s1600/fave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEe3ZaViH5PDCOrojGWA6ZWGwIlATiWqczqNNjrQbZjDdLFYOblV4pBnENQbo1iPBi-9rdN-xzdAZtgZTTyxMv7acVKRDWXYkrRjpgaU79bjlDlreM2lf47WHyw3VVukEiRqXLJETyDHU/s1600/fave.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Spring
has finally arrived in Rome and with it fava beans, known simply as <i>Le Fave</i>
here. You know they’re coming a couple of weeks before they’re available
because these notices begin appearing outside shops selling fresh vegetables:
This establishment sells fresh fava beans. </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">When
I first noticed these signs ten years ago, I thought it meant everyone was
anticipating the arrival of this venerable vegetable. I’ve since learned that
there is a rare, though serious, allergy that can be triggered by inhaling the
fumes released by these beans, much less eating them. Fortunately, perhaps, the
condition is genetic, so you probably know if you’re vulnerable and should stay
away from shops displaying the notice. But the signs still excite me because I
know the treat will be here soon.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTL_bNalz7CenPUGpQJfERV3hU8vZgpg0OMpVHg2q-P9hixI4FFp5JHWB2y9cfaCLoyPwft4xG8F_nLky5cpoR6beFCpvZ0W4rs_T5N48ansQBelP0CAGNM7AdmpzTcgkZS6v8uzbyGgY/s1600/Shelled+fave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTL_bNalz7CenPUGpQJfERV3hU8vZgpg0OMpVHg2q-P9hixI4FFp5JHWB2y9cfaCLoyPwft4xG8F_nLky5cpoR6beFCpvZ0W4rs_T5N48ansQBelP0CAGNM7AdmpzTcgkZS6v8uzbyGgY/s1600/Shelled+fave.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Favas
were the only legumes eaten by Europeans prior to explorations of the New
World. They have been a mainstay in the diets of Asians, Europeans, Middle
Easterners, and North Africans for centuries, and it’s believed that North
Africans may have begun eating them as early as 6,000 BC. Known by many
names—broad beans, Windsor beans, field beans, or bell beans—favas are a
harbinger of spring wherever they’re grown.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">In
Rome, May 1 celebrations—Labor Day here—include raw fava beans and pecorino
cheese. But the real spring treat is <i>vignarola</i>, a medley of vegetables
available concurrently as the weather warms: artichokes (just ending the
season), favas, and peas. It’s a labor-intensive dish best prepared while
seated at a table outdoors, accompanied by a friend and a glass of white wine.
You can shell the legumes and clean the artichokes while enjoying the sunshine.
When all the vegetables have been preped, move indoors for the cooking.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Vignarola</span></span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">1 1/2 cups shelled peas</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">1 1/2 cups shelled and peeled fava
beans*</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">2 large artichokes, cleaned ** and cut
into eighths</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">1 lemon</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">2 large spring onions, thinly sliced</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">1/2 head Romaine lettuce, cut
horizontally into strips</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">1/3 cup cubed bacon (optional)</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">salt and pepper to taste</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0Nt5sM07mBcY6WIuhCJj-HyeYznHfP7LKCpVC5L5iqhMmchksM1tzwXs0iqCvpK-EzVmX-HsHJHossTk-25yxcLYUlaBKMf_-Bxaw2_4ZM3ePmyrsDDEIKPU-nzypCzxNIdz0DyM15Y/s1600/vignarola.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="126" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0Nt5sM07mBcY6WIuhCJj-HyeYznHfP7LKCpVC5L5iqhMmchksM1tzwXs0iqCvpK-EzVmX-HsHJHossTk-25yxcLYUlaBKMf_-Bxaw2_4ZM3ePmyrsDDEIKPU-nzypCzxNIdz0DyM15Y/s320/vignarola.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">1. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan
and add the bacon, cooking and stirring until it begins to brown (if you’re
omitting the bacon, move to step 2).</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">2.
Add the spring onions; cook until they soften.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">3.
Add the artichokes, Romaine, salt, and pepper. Stir well and cover. Reduce heat
to lowest setting and cook about 10 minutes.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">4. Stir in the peas and favas. Cook an
additional 15 to 20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">5.
Serve warm or hot. It can be a starter course or a main dish. It also works
well as a sauce for pasta.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>* A <a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k33UyOHxt"></a><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k33UyOHxtT8">video</a> showing how to
clean fava beans</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">** A <a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQ-0tSJ54"></a><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQ-0tSJ5408">video</a> showing how to
clean artichokes</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-66253244983155771522013-04-11T07:00:00.000+02:002013-04-11T07:00:00.591+02:00Facciamo un Brindisi<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="IT" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: IT; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">By Patricia
Winton</span></span>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Y6N9zvuzUKqgxpPxsUkSMeME2JgwG3Gtdj-U8Ttp4Sxq4uDsSAL3Tp7fncxgkjstqKoN5sPmlubnOKM_-b2LKeLLUl7K6sKGTzBYIX9L7qmieyysWiL4v3yWNNduW0NaSCwnAtYWMP0/s1600/prosecco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Y6N9zvuzUKqgxpPxsUkSMeME2JgwG3Gtdj-U8Ttp4Sxq4uDsSAL3Tp7fncxgkjstqKoN5sPmlubnOKM_-b2LKeLLUl7K6sKGTzBYIX9L7qmieyysWiL4v3yWNNduW0NaSCwnAtYWMP0/s1600/prosecco.jpg" /></a><i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Facciamo un Brindisi</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> is the Italian way of saying “Let’s make a toast.” There
are two competing stories about the origin of the phrase. One comes from that
high Italian art form, opera. That idea says the word brinidisi is based on a
German phrase <i>Ich bring dir's</i> – "I offer it to you." In
several Italian operas, two character sings an invitation to drink to each
other, and the chorus joins in. The word also refers to a drinking song which
encourages people in a large group to drink and toast each other. One of the
most famous of this type of brindisi comes from <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3YuDSl9lik" target="_blank">La Traviata</a> <i><span style="color: blue;"></span></i> by Giuseppe Verdi. (Listen while you read the rest of this
post.)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">But the word brindisi may also come
from the Italian town of the same name, located on the southeast coast of Italy
. This story is connected with ancient Rome. The town of Brindisi then, as now,
was a port city. Roman armies embarked on campaigns to make war and conquer
more territories from Brindisi. After marching the 476 miles (295 km.) from Rome,
the soldiers would revel in the town, drinking and toasting each other for
success in battle and a safe return.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Italian vintners have reason to make
a brindisi these days. Exports of Italian wine have increased by 10 percent
over the past few years, and exports of prosecco, the bubbly traditionally used
for brindisi, have soared 26 percent to the United States and Canada in the
past year alone. So Americans and Canadians should be making more brindisi
these days.</span></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkjYHpdAfWG6zzvWsajwVfieKXMARDbDR88WOHWHIFMDPHIwIMo0xQfiTTESRuKZ7gNaufFSbb9xdI6L_UlmxQWmUnwOV_jEt23HuSOvO5BXTVJkGoAjulvlU5LNymMrm_2wR59eOcdGQ/s1600/prosecco_logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkjYHpdAfWG6zzvWsajwVfieKXMARDbDR88WOHWHIFMDPHIwIMo0xQfiTTESRuKZ7gNaufFSbb9xdI6L_UlmxQWmUnwOV_jEt23HuSOvO5BXTVJkGoAjulvlU5LNymMrm_2wR59eOcdGQ/s1600/prosecco_logo.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Prosecco hails from the area around
Conigliano-Valdobbiadene, in the Veneto region of Italy nestled near the Alps.
The wine enjoys a “geographic indication,” which means that only wine from the
region can be called by either of these three names: Prosecco di Conigliano,
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, or Prosecco di Conigliano-Valdobbiadene. In 2008,
its status was elevated from D.O.C. (Controlled name origin) to D.O.C.G.
wherein the authentic name is guaranteed.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It’s a wine with a sharp, fresh
aroma and a light taste. Aged in stainless steel vats instead of in the bottle,
prosecco is a wine to drink young as it goes flat with age. That’s all the more
reason to make a brindisi. </span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
hope you’ll raise a glass of it soon.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><i>Next week, I'll be writing here at </i>Italian Intrigues<i> again. My next post at </i><a href="http://noveladventurers.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Novel Adventurers</a><i> will be April 25. Please check out my new <a href="http://www.patriciawinton.com/" target="_blank">website</a>. </i></span></span></div>
Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7201626175142808357.post-66731457084253699772013-03-28T07:00:00.000+01:002013-03-28T07:00:02.233+01:00Roman Artichokes<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">By
Patricia Winton</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKqI82l42FdMSL1Hn-MebevSATYX5Od0CPx1hPIiVwFLPGctEAX4f1gxtUsM9UhGccgAb7TyTHmAE9vZT2lJ8EYd4Nj32QFhQydqzfTjpWisl_0L_gLLnjQxGLo2z6Vq49zA4hNdD9A48/s1600/carciofi+romani+mammole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKqI82l42FdMSL1Hn-MebevSATYX5Od0CPx1hPIiVwFLPGctEAX4f1gxtUsM9UhGccgAb7TyTHmAE9vZT2lJ8EYd4Nj32QFhQydqzfTjpWisl_0L_gLLnjQxGLo2z6Vq49zA4hNdD9A48/s320/carciofi+romani+mammole.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">At
this time of year, the giant purple Roman artichoke—known as <i>cimiroli</i>—comes into season. Two regional recipes, <i>carciofi
alla romana</i> (Roman artichokes) and <i>carciofi alla giudia</i> (Jewish
artichokes), vie for the dinner table. Either may join the Easter feast. The
former, carciofi alla romana, requires less work. Both are delicious when well
cooked.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
have to admit that I’ve never tackled the carciofi alla giudia (a fried
artichoke) because it’s quite complicated. I've savored them at restaurants in the Roman ghetto, however, and they are quite wonderful. If you are interested, you can see a <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=7201626175142808357" name="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQ-0tSJ54"></a><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQ-0tSJ5408">video</a> (dubbed in English)
that demonstrates the process.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">To
make both recipes, first you must clean the globes. (The video linked above
gives a good demonstration of how to do this.) In Italy, artichokes are
normally sold with a portion of the stem, which is edible. To clean, first
prepare a bowl of water with the juice of a lemon along with the two lemon
halves. Artichokes will darken your hands, so you may want to rub them with the
lemon before you begin.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoaLZqrp8ZogcdshP75-V4mJ7zfiy-nAh5SiTPl_0yMqpa6PYj_FygcBALLtmNtPxBAxN74WqmPFCIQ8Nbd25j3YPayPJkTaZMZPCO9Atv2d2NbP7oSb7OS__mj1UsMNedAVL8NBuup0o/s1600/cleaned+artichokes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoaLZqrp8ZogcdshP75-V4mJ7zfiy-nAh5SiTPl_0yMqpa6PYj_FygcBALLtmNtPxBAxN74WqmPFCIQ8Nbd25j3YPayPJkTaZMZPCO9Atv2d2NbP7oSb7OS__mj1UsMNedAVL8NBuup0o/s200/cleaned+artichokes.jpg" width="130" /></a><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The
first step is to snap off the tough outer leaves. Keep going until you begin to
see green edges at the base of the remaining artichokes. Next, cut off the
points by taking a sharp paring knife and begin making a horizontal cut midway
between the base and tip. Turn the artichoke as you go, cutting deeper and
deeper into the flesh until you reached the center. Next, use the knife to peel
away the tough base of the leaves you removed earlier. Peel any stem remaining.
Put the artichoke in the waiting water. Now choose a recipe, either the one
below or the one in the video.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Carciofi
alla Romana</span></b></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">4 globe artichokes (cleaned and put to
soak in lemon water)</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">2 clove of garlic, minced</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">2 tablespoons chopped mint</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley </span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">salt and pepper</span><br /><div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">water </span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> </span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Mix together the garlic, mint, parsley, and enough of the olive oil to moisten the mixture. Mix well. (The usual mint used in this dish is <i>mentuccia</i></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">—</span>Roman mint</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">—</span>but you can substitute other mint if the mentuccia is not available.)</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Remove the artichokes, shaking and blotting with paper towels to remove water. </span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Using your thumbs, stretch open each
artichoke, making a little well in the center, and pull apart the leaves without breaking or separating them. </span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Fill each artichoke with some of the
mixture, rubbing the exterior with the mixture as well. Place the artichoke in
a large pot. </span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Pour the remaining oil over the artichokes and add enough water to come half-way up.
Cover the artichokes with a large piece of crumpled parchment paper.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Cover the pan and bring to a simmer,
cooking over a moderate flame for half an hour.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Pierce
the artichokes with a fork to check if they are done. Continue cooking until
they are tender, if necessary.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Serve the artichokes at room temperature.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-U94nhs-_qFxs-oMQ5Thb9uv5W_uWnLQusAvIBHol859HXE5zXS7jHzMjzKPZq4jn_YIs0qN7Ptih-_KM7i9kWZpEbktEP7xy-S8St_eA3e60poW6ceHK3M-q50KUNDaDsvmTXezqnNk/s1600/cooked+carciofi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-U94nhs-_qFxs-oMQ5Thb9uv5W_uWnLQusAvIBHol859HXE5zXS7jHzMjzKPZq4jn_YIs0qN7Ptih-_KM7i9kWZpEbktEP7xy-S8St_eA3e60poW6ceHK3M-q50KUNDaDsvmTXezqnNk/s320/cooked+carciofi.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Serves
4</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">.</span></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; -qt-paragraph-type: empty; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-indent: 27.0pt;">
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<![endif]--><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Join me on alternate Thursdays at </span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><a href="http://noveladventurers.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Novel Adventurers</a><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">. Next week I blog about my first journey to Italy, a trip fraught with
seemingly insurmountable hurdles.</i></span>
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<br /></div>
Patricia Wintonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05095600674659292509noreply@blogger.com6